Showing posts with label credit cards. Show all posts
Showing posts with label credit cards. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 16, 2019

2018 Cash Back Rewards Wrap Up, Miscellaneous Stuff, and Foreshadowing

I know I've been away for a bit and I missed posting a net worth update for December. My only excuse is it was the holidays and we went on a road trip (which I did manage to blog about). Today, I'm going to write about a couple of little things that are too small for individual blogs posts. Look at this as the blog equivalent of petit fours, or perhaps a few amuse-bouches, if you will.

Cash Back Rewards For 2018

In October, I posted my cash back rewards for the year to date - $1,026.66. At the time, there were three months left in the year, so I went back to see what my year-end number turned out to be.


I added almost another $400 exactly to finish the year with $1,425.63 in cash back rewards. That's over fourteen hundred dollars that credit card companies gave me simply for using their cards. To put that in perspective, that's like getting one free car payment on my Tesla.

Card Card Interest Charges For 2018

How much did that money cost me or, in other words, how much credit card interest did I pay in 2018?


I'd like to say zero, but I actually paid $2.14 in interest. This was only because I entered a date incorrectly on my bill pay app and missed a due date by a couple of days one month. Missing a perfect record of no interest charges pissed me off. At least I wasn't also hit with a late fee.

Stock Market Volatility

Although I was not able to post a December net worth post, I have been following my net worth. As most people know, the stock market has been incredibly volatile since last September. Take a look at how that has translated to the value of my brokerage accounts:

Click to embiggen
That chart is just my brokerage accounts, not my total net worth and the first big drop in September was when I withdrew money to buy my Tesla. But look at the fluctuations after that, especially compared to before. Crazy! It's even crazier when you realize I add money to these accounts every week, yet I still saw some serious declines. So yes.. You really need to take a long term view when investing in the stock market.

What's Coming Up?

There is a good chance I will have some exciting news in February. Let me just say that it started with a trip to the mall. Stay tuned!

Wednesday, November 28, 2018

It's That Time Of Year Again - To Ask For A Gift


Time to ask your credit card companies for a gift - a credit limit increase. I have a detailed post on why you want to do this here, but the short version is:

  1. Increasing your credit limit, decreases your credit utilization, which increases your credit score. See the above referenced post for why.
  2. This assumes you do not go out and spend your new credit. If you can't control yourself, don't do this.
I got my credit limit increased by $3,000 on one card and $6,000 on another. My wife had an unsolicited credit increase on one of her card at the end of October, so I didn't need to try to increase that card and I scored a $5,000 increase on her other card.

Both of our Discover cards increased our credit limit without performing a credit check. It was a simple on-line request that was approved instantly. My Chase card did perform a credit check - I think. I had to email their customer support asking for the increase and, as part of that process, I said I agreed to them pulling my credit report. A couple days later, I got a report from my credit monitoring service saying Chase performed a credit check, so I know they actually did pull my report.

I have one other credit card, from Bank Of America. They said they would need to pull my credit report and I opted to not go forward with that one. It's a card I almost never use. In fact, I only got it to use on a trip overseas two years ago. I figured the benefit of the higher credit limit for a card I rarely use would not be worth the temporary credit score hit of a second hard credit check.

Take a minute or two before the holiday craziness kicks in and ask for a Christmas gift for yourself this year. It sounds counter-intuitive, but a credit limit increase can actually improve your credit score!

Wednesday, October 3, 2018

Don't Leave Money On The Table: My Credit Card Cashback Rewards Year To Date (Sep. 2018)


This week, I'm going to take a short break from all the Tesla posts and get back to some personal finance topics. My post on my first week of Tesla ownership will be next week, I promise!

I got an email from my Chase Freedom credit card a week ago showing me how much I've earned in cash back bonuses so far this year.



That's a pretty big chunk of change! It's higher than I would have guessed.

But this was only for one of my credit cards. I also have a Discover card that earns cash back and partway through the year, my wife switched to the Citi Double Cash card, which gives you 1% back on charges and 1% back on payments. My wife also has a Discover card as well, so we earn cash back there. Basically, every credit card we own gives us cash back.

We charge just about everything we purchase and pay off our balances in full each month (each week, actually). Because we never carry a balance, we are never charged interest. This means all the cash back we earn goes straight into our pocket. It's like getting free money.

I was curious to see how much free money we earned over all of our credit cards so far this year. Luckily, I track all my transactions on a phone app, so it was a simple matter to get this information.



Wow! $1,025.66! That's a lot of free money! (And there's still three more months in the year!)

This isn't phantom savings either. I don't take this money and go spend it all on hookers and blow frivolous items. Each month, as soon as the cash back is awarded, I immediately apply it to my credit card balance. That means it directly reduces the cost of my day-to-day monthly expenses.

The trick to maximizing cash back is to pay attention to the details of your cash back program. For example, both my Chase Freedom card and our Discover cards have a bonus category each quarter where you earn 5% cash back instead of the normal 1% or 2%.

For July, August, and September, the bonus category for Discover was restaurants. So anytime we went to a restaurant (even fast food), I made sure to use my Discover card. For October, November, and December, the bonus category changes to Amazon.com. So on October 1, I'm going to change my default credit card on Amazon to be my Discover card. I'll probably also do most of my holiday shopping on Amazon to earn more. (I'm an Amazon Prime member, so shipping doesn't cost me any extra.)

I keep a note in my wallet listing the bonus categories for each card, so I can make sure I use the right card in the right situation.

It's really nice when you can put big expenses on a cash back card. Back in August, I paid my $2,500 Tesla deposit with my Chase Freedom card. The $4,000 worth of electrical work I had done for installing the wall charger and new electrical panel? On the credit card.

Of course, the important part is being able to pay off your credit card bill in full each month. If you can't do that, you'll end up losing money. But if you are careful with budgeting and are able to consistently pay off your monthly bill, you can earn some serious coin for buying stuff you needed anyway. So take full advantage of your cash back cards and don't leave money on the table!


Wednesday, March 21, 2018

Credit Card Showdown: Costco Visa vs. Chase Freedom

I love my Chase Freedom Visa credit card. I earn 1% cash back on every purchase and 5% cash back from select merchants that change each quarter. There is no annual fee. And now that Costco takes Visa, I can use it there as well.

But the last time I was at Costco, I noticed a sign advertising a Costco branded credit card. These are the details:



Hmm.. That looks intriguing. I spend a fair amount of money at Costco and my Chase Freedom card only gives me 1% cash back there. I could double that with Costco's card. Four percent back on gas purchases sounds promising, as does 3% on restaurant spending. The base 1% on everything else matches the Freedom card's cash back rate. Perhaps it was worth looking at switching..

The Devil Is In The Details

So I checked out the fine print of Costco's card cash back program. The card is offered through Citibank and the terms can be found here. Here's my comparison, based on information obtained on March 14, 2018.

Annual Fee

Neither card has an annual fee. Winner: Tie

Annual Percentage Rate

The Costco card APR is currently 16.49%. This is determined by adding 11.99% to the Prime Rate. Chase Freedom is the same. Note that your actual rate will be determined by your credit score and may be higher. I don't carry a balance, so this isn't a big deal to me. Winner: Tie

Sign Up Bonus

Costco's card does not offer a signup bonus. Freedom offers a $150 credit after you spend $500 in the first 3 months of getting a card. You can earn another $25 by adding a second user to the card and making a charge with that card within the first three months. Winner: Chase Freedom

Reward Program And Reward Redemption

This gets a little complicated.

For the Freedom card, it's relatively straightforward: 1% cash back on all purchases, with no maximum. For selected categories, you earn 5% cash back on the first $1,500 spent in the quarter. After that, the standard 1% rate applies. You must manually activate your increased cash back bonus each quarter to earn it.

The Costco card has four reward categories:

  • 4% cash back on all gas purchases, including gas purchased at Costco, up to $7,000
  • 3% cash back on restaurant and travel purchases, which includes hotels, airfare, car rentals, etc. Purchases from Costco Travel do qualify.
  • 2% cash back on all Costco purchases.
  • 1% cash back on everything else.
If you read the fine print, you'll discover some important exceptions:

  • Bakeries do not count as restaurants, for some reason. Also, some restaurants inside stores will not count. This is typical and understandable. The main store is not categorized as a restaurant, so you will just earn 1% there. Chase Freedom has the same disclaimer for it's quarterly categories.
  • Not all gas stations qualify for 4% cash back. Costco gas stations do, but gas purchased from other warehouse stores, convenience stores, supermarkets, superstores, and non-Costco warehouse stores do NOT qualify. You only earn 1% cash back at those locations.

Chase Freedom rewards can be redeemed each month. They can be redeemed as a statement credit or used to purchase gift cards from select merchants, such as Amazon. Reward points do not expire.

Costco cash back awards are distributed once per year, at the end of your February billing cycle. You receive a certificate than must be redeemed at Costco in a single transaction. If your reward is more than your purchase, you will receive cash back. The certificate expires on December 31 of the year in which it was awarded.

Winner: Chase Freedom, for many reasons.

The restrictions on the 4% gas station rewards make it more or less useless to me. I do buy gas at Costco when I can, but there is not a location convenient to me. Most of my purchases are at the gas station at my local Safeway, which has the cheapest prices outside of Costco. Per the Costco card restrictions, I would not earn 4% there because it is a supermarket. I'd only earn 1%.

The yearly reward redemption, quite frankly, sucks. I don't want to have to wait a year to redeem my rewards. Furthermore, I don't want a paper certificate that I can only use at Costco. Sure, I shop there a lot, but why is paper even still being used? It's just another thing to keep track of or lose. And yes, I can redeem it for cash, but I resent being forced to go to a particular place to redeem it. Chase Freedom offers me the ability to credit my account monthly, online and at my convenience.

Other Requirements

Your Costco membership fee will be automatically charged to your Costco credit card. Additionally, if you cancel your Costco membership, your credit card may be cancelled as well.
 

And the overall winner is....


Chase Freedom.


While Costco typically has good deals on most things, this credit card program just doesn't compete with the Chase Freedom program, both in terms of ability to earn rewards and the ability to redeem them. I'm sticking with Chase Freedom.

Wednesday, August 9, 2017

Credit Cards For People With Bad Credit


I'm not one who plays close attention to credit card offers or constantly applies for new cards to get the sign up bonuses. I tend to find a few cards that provide good rewards for my needs and stick with those. There are many websites devoted to tracking credit card offers and rate and promos. NerdWallet in particular does a yearly roundup of such deals.

The cards with the best offers or bonus tend to be mainly for people with good credit. What do you do if your credit is not so good or even outright bad? For those people, finding a credit card is less about finding one that provides good perks, but more about finding one at all or one without a crazy high interest rate.

A Great Credit Card Guide

U.S. News & World Report has recently published what is the most comprehensive guide for credit cards for people with poor credit that I have seen. You can check it out here. It's a lengthy read, but full of good information, especially if you have poor credit and are looking for advice on how to improve it.

The article starts at the beginning, defining what a credit score is, how to get yours, and how to improve it. It then moves on to specific credit cards to look at and compare. What I really like is the article also lists what credit cards to avoid.

If you have poor credit and are looking for ways to change that, this article is well worth the time it takes to read and study.

New Credit Card Offer

Despite having started this post saying I don't follow credit card offers too closely, I will say I received an announcement for one that made me sit up and take notice. USAA has come out with a new card that offers either 1.5% cash back on all purchases or 2.5% cash back on all purchases. This caught my eye because most cash back card will give you 2% back on all purchases, sometime up to 5% from specific stores that change each quarter. That extra 0.5% could add up! (Note: The higher return requires a checking account with direct deposit at USAA.)


Not everyone will qualify for this. Besides the regular credit card approval process, you also have to be eligible to join USAA. This generally means you or someone in your family must have been in the military at some point. Full eligibility details can be found here.

I use USAA for insurance and some banking. They are a great company with fantastic customer service. *

Thoughts?


So what do you think? Do you have poor credit? If so, what are you doing, if anything, to improve it?


* Although I have not received any compensation for anything mentioned in this post, please see my disclosure statement for full details.

Wednesday, December 14, 2016

This Christmas, Ask For Higher Credit Limits


Your credit score is an important number. We all know that is the number companies look at when you want to get a loan or open a new credit card. But did you also know it can affect how much you pay for home and auto insurance? Did you know someone with a poor credit score can pay twice as much as someone with a high credit score for the exact same insurance coverage? Check out this post from FinancialLibre for more info. For that reason, even when I am not looking to open any new lines of credit, I still work to keep my credit score high.

As part of my mission of retaining a high credit score, once a year, I contact my credit card issuers and ask for a credit line increase. How does this help my credit score?

Credit Utilization Ratio

One of the variables that goes into the calculation of your credit score is something called your credit utilization ratio. This can be calculated on a per-card basis (that is, the credit utilization for each card by itself) and overall (based on all your credit cards). Most credit scores use a combination of both ratios to determine your score. The lower this ratio is, the higher your credit score.

How It Is Calculated

As with all things credit cards, math is involved. But it's easy math, so don't fret.

Your credit utilization ratio is simply the amount you have outstanding on a credit card divided by the total amount of credit available on that card. Let's look at a single card first. Suppose you have a credit limit of $1,000 and you have a $250 outstanding balance on that card. Your credit utilization ratio for that card is 250 / 1000, or 25%.

Easy peasy.

Now let's look at your overall credit utilization. Suppose you have three credit cards with the following credit limits and balances:

CardOutstanding BalanceCredit Limit
Card 1$250$1,000
Card 2$700$1,000
Card 3$1,400$2,000

First, let's look at the individual credit utilization ratios for each card. This is done just like we did previously for the single card. Here's the table updated to include that:

CardOutstanding BalanceCredit LimitC.U.R.
Card 1$250$1,00025%
Card 2$700$1,00070%
Card 3$1,400$2,00070%

To find our overall credit utilization ratio, we add up all our outstanding balances and divide by the sum of our credit limits:

CardOutstanding BalanceCredit LimitC.U.R.
Card 1$250$1,00025%
Card 2$700$1,00070%
Card 3$1,400$2,00070%
Overall$2,350$4,00058.75%

So looking at this, we can see you are using more than half of the total credit extended to you.

How Does A Credit Limit Increase Help?

So how does increasing your credit limit help your credit score? By increasing your credit limit, your credit utilization ratio will decrease - even if your outstanding balances do not change! Why? MATHS!

By increasing your credit limit, you are increasing the denominator of the ratio. This means you are dividing by a larger number, which results in a smaller number. Let's say we called up all our credit card issuers and got a $500 credit limit increase from each of them. Here's how the table looks now:

CardOutstanding BalanceCredit LimitC.U.R.
Card 1$250$1,50016.67%
Card 2$700$1,50046.67%
Card 3$1,400$2,50056%
Overall$2,350$5,50042.73%

Look at that. Even though your outstanding balances did not change, your credit utilization ratio for each card dropped, as did your overall credit utilization ratio! Because all of these figures are used to calculate your credit score, decreasing any or all of them, will increase your credit score.

In Practice, It's Not That Simple

There is one other thing to watch out for. Another part of your credit score is based on how many recent "hard" credit inquiries you have. A slew of credit inquires in a short amount of time will drop your score because it could indicate you are opening a bunch of new credit accounts. How many is "a slew" and how long is "a short amount of time?" That's a secret. The credit reporting agencies don't share that information. The Illuminati forbid it.

So what should you do?

First off, some credit cards don't run a hard credit inquiry when you ask for a credit increase. You can tell if they are going to because they have to ask your permission before doing so. Go online to your credit card's website. You should be able to find an option to request a credit increase. (Note, not all credit cards allow you to do this online. One of mine required that I call the number on my card.) You can go through the process of requesting an increase and, if they ask for your permission to pull your credit, you can simply abandon the process at that point.

Or, go ahead and let them. If you feel your credit is good - or at least, hasn't gotten worse since you opened the card - or if you are not planning on applying for any new credit soon, go ahead and let them pull your credit. If you aren't looking to get a new loan or credit card in the near future, any small hit your score might get from the additional credit inquiries should be gone after a few months pass.

No matter which method is used, you should get an answer to your result immediately.

When you go through the process, you'll need to provide your current income and your current rent or mortgage payment amount. Some cards will ask what you want your new limit to be and some won't.

My Results

My wife and I have our own credit cards - no joint cards. There is no real reason for this. It's just how things started out because we lived together for a while before we got married and combined our finances.

Bank Of America Travel Rewards Card - This is a new card I got about 6 months ago because I'm going to be going to Germany soon and this card has no foreign transaction fees. I was able to request an increase online. I asked for a $1,000 increase and was given a $3,000 increase. Because this is still a fairly new account, I was surprised I got anything at all.

Chase Freedom - I was not able to do this online and when I called the number on my card, they said they had to do a hard inquiry on my credit, which I consented to. I did not ask for a specific amount of increase. They ended up increasing my limit by $4,600 - exactly 20% of my old credit limit.

Citi Black Diamond Visa - This is my wife's card. I was able to request the increase online, but they asked to do a hard inquiry on my wife's credit report. I consented. I asked for a $1,200 increase and they said I would get a response in a few days. Less than 24 hours later, I got an email saying I was approved for the amount I requested (which was about a 20% increase).

My Discover card - I asked for an increase online, no specific amount. They did not check my credit and I got a $500 increase. This was the smallest increase I got and I wonder if it was because I rarely use this card.

My wife's Discover card - Jackpot! I was able to request this online and they did not ask for a credit report. I did not ask for a certain amount and she end up with a $5,000 increase! That represents a 33% increase from her old credit limit!

Your Mileage May Vary

I should also note that both my credit score and my wife's are currently 800 or higher, so we're in the "Excellent" credit rating range. We also never carry a balance on our credit cards, so this process will likely have minimal impact on our scores. So why do I bother?

I look at this as preventative maintenance. The future is uncertain and you never know what may happen. It's easier to get credit when you don't need it than when you do, so I have a reminder in my calendar to do this every year in November.

If you are trying to increase your credit score, this is one method you may want to look into.

Does anyone else do this on a regular basis?

Wednesday, February 24, 2016

Update On Previous Posts (Updated)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/29224712@N08/4409461689/As part of my Don't Leave Money On The Table series of posts, I wrote almost a year ago about saving asking for a discount. The following month, I wrote a couple of posts about using credit cards wisely and in the second of those posts, I mentioned which reward cards I used. I also wrote about Paribus, a service that monitors your online purchases for price drops and automatically files for refunds for you. Time for an update!


Asking For A Discount

A year has gone by since I asked for (and received) discounts on my internet and satellite TV bills. The discounts I was given have expired, so it was time to call and ask again. I didn't have as quite as much luck with my internet provider as I did twelve months ago. Last year, I was given a $23 per month discount. This year, the company was raising rates in February by $7 per month. I was only able to get a discount of $5 off the current full price, with that price locked in for a year. I mentioned that the price for new customers was lower. I was told that was only valid for new customers. I told them I had been a loyal customer for 10+ years and couldn't believe they would give a better deal to a new customer than to me. No go.

So I took my $5 discount and mentioned that I wasn't happy with it. About two days later, I got a call from someone else at the company saying they understood I wasn't satisfied and what could they do, blah blah blah. I went through the whole explanation again. This time I was offered an additional $2 per month discount. I took it, as it was better than nothing, but I still wasn't happy. But since my total discount now was equal to the new price increase, I considered it a minor victory.

What Happened?

As I mentioned in my original post, asking for discounts doesn't always work. I also made a strategic blunder. This time, when I called I just went through the voice prompts to speak to a customer service representative regarding billing. Last year, I asked to talk to someone about downgrading or cancelling my service. I think not doing so this year was my big mistake. I was asking for something from someone who probably didn't have the ability to give it to me.

Unfortunately, I don't have any realistic alternatives for high speed internet in my area, so I can't threaten to cancel or even price compare with another company. I'm probably stuck until (if / when) Google Fiber comes to town. Still, my phone call saved me $84 per year.

Better Results With Dish Network

The discount I got on my Dish Network bill last year expired this month and I had better luck with them. I called and followed the prompts to speak to someone about changing my service. When I finally got connected to a person, I said I wanted to cancel because the cost was too high. The rep offered to look at what channels I watched and see if there was a cheaper package I might want instead. I told them I was just going to use an over-the-air HD antenna and Netflix, so there was no need to do that. I mentioned that I was receiving a $35 per month discount and that expired, which made the cost too high now. I was offered a $20 per month discount for 10 months, which I accepted. $200 saved!

Reward Credit Cards

I have an American Express Starwood Preferred Guest card. This card earns me SPG points I use for free nights at the hotel chains owned by SPG (although you can also redeem them for frequent flyer miles on just about any airline). This isn't a huge benefit for me, as I usually only redeem them once a year, so I really only used this card at Costco, where they only accept American Express. The card comes with a $95 annual fee.

A couple of big changes happened last year that seriously reduced the value of this card to me. The biggest is that Costco dropped American Express and switched to Visa as its exclusive credit card. This change goes into effect April 1 this year. Since Costco was pretty much the only place I used this card, it was silly for me to pay the $95 annual fee for a card I would rarely use.

So I called up American Express and asked if they would waive the annual fee. I was flat out told no, they do not waive annual fees. I was offered to switch to a card that earned Delta Airline miles and only had a $55 per year fee, but I declined. I immediately asked for my card to be cancelled, which they did.

Doing so, I was struck by their complete lack of concern for losing a customer. The agent I was speaking with didn't seem flustered or bothered at all that I was cancelling my card right then and there. There was no effort to persuade me to stay (beyond the initial new card offer), no attempt to transfer me to a retention specialist, nothing. She just read me some fine print regarding the cancellation and that was it. I got the impression they could care less if I used their card or not. This was really surprising because the few times I have called their customer support in the past, I was always given incredibly helpful service. It seems like American Express is going through an identity crisis these days.

The other factor in my cancelling this card was the merger of Starwood Hotels and Marriott. Like others, I am concerned with how this merger will change the loyalty program. Starwood brand hotels are typically higher end than Marriott and the customer loyalty program has some of the best perks out there. Those will probably disappear soon. But, as I said, I really only stayed in their hotels once or twice a year, so it's not a huge loss.

I attempted to get my card's annual fee waived for a year just so I could see how useful the card would be to me with these changes. I'm not willing to pay $95 to perform that experiment, so I canceled it. As an added bonus, this card had the highest interest rate of all my cards (not that I carry a balance) and was my only card that had an annual fee, so it felt good to toss it.

The Costco switch to Visa is actually better for me, since my Chase Freedom Visa is the card I used almost daily and it will now be accepted at Costco. I earn 1% to 5% cash back with that card and it has no annual fee.

Paribus 

In August last year, I wrote about Paribus, a company that monitors your online purchases from a couple of select websites and automatically files requests for refunds if something you purchased drops in price. When I signed up, Paribus almost immediately found me a $25 refund on a pair of shoes my wife bought. Since then, they haven't found a ton of refunds for me. According to their website, I've made 57 purchases that they have logged and I've received $53 in refunds. Nothing exciting, but nothing to sneeze at either. I suspect my lack of savings is simply due to the type of items I purchase from Amazon. I tend to buy smaller items such as books and various household sundries. I rarely buy big ticket items or fancy electronics, but Paribus still manages to find some rebates for me. For example, I got $2.33 back on a replacement water heater sacrificial anode I bought last month.

That changed yesterday. We've started doing some improvements to our house (after saving up funds through our budget) and one of the projects we are doing is upgrading our TV systems. We're trading out our old rear projection non-HD TV that was 15 years old for a new LED flat screen. I purchased this through Amazon - not only because the price was good, but because I specifically wanted Paribus to monitor the price for me. A week after the purchase, I got notification from Paribus that the price had dropped $200 and they submitted a refund request for me. The next day, I got confirmation from Amazon that I would be getting a $213 credit applied to my credit card! Paribus charges 25% for their service, so I only get a net $160 refund, but I'm not complaining. (Looking back at my previous post, I noticed my first refunds were given in the form of Amazon credits. The last two I have gotten have been actual credits posted to my credit card, which is even nicer than Amazon credit.)

As part of this project, I also purchased a TV wall mount, a DVD player and a new AV receiver. I'm hoping Paribus will find some rebates for those as well. If you are interested in joining Paribus, drop me a note or leave a comment and I can get you a code good for a discount on your first refund.

(UPDATE: 5-23-16) Amazon has changed their price matching policy. From now on, they will only price match televisions. Given this, I have cancelled my Paribus account, as Amazon was the only retailer I used it with. I wonder if the popularity of sites like Paribus and Earny, which tracked Amazon prices for users, was a contributing factor to this change.

Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Retail Credit Cards Are Robbing You

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeepersmedia/14610094216/CreditCards.com recently released their annual survey of credit cards rates for retail branded cards. Retail branded cards are those issued by stores, such as The Gap, Apple, Macy's, or Staples. The results are not good news for consumers.

The average interest rate on retail credit cards in 2015 is 23.43%. Zales Jewelers has the highest rate at 28.99% and Staples comes in second at 27.99%. For comparison, the nation average for "regular" credit cards is 15%. How much will this save you? On a $1,000 balance, if you pay the minimum amount on a card with a 23.43% interest rate, it will take you 6 years to pay off the balance and you'll pay $838 in interest. Think about that. You got $1,000 of merchandise for $1,838. You almost doubled your cost. I hate to be the one to tell you this but.. Shopping? You're doing it wrong.

If you instead used a normal card with a 15% interest rate to make that $1,000 purchase and paid the minimum amount, you'd have it paid off in just four and a half years and would only pay $370 in interest. That still sucks. You've still paid 37% more than you should have, but at least you saved over $450 with the lower interest rate card.

Many times, stores will offer benefits for using their retail credit card, either discounts, cash back, special sales, etc. If you pay of your balance in full each month, these can be worthwhile. However, if you carry a balance, odds are you will be losing money in the long run.


Carrying a credit card balance on any type of card is one of the worst things you can do financially. But if you have to carry a balance, at the very least, get a card with a low interest rate and don't fall for the gimmicks stores use to try to get you to use their card. No matter what incentives they offer you, if you carry a balance on their card, you will end up losing money. Guaranteed.

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

The Difference Between APR and APY

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeepersmedia/16373967348/If you've done any sort of comparison shopping to find the best rates on savings accounts or loans, you've likely seen the initials APR and APY after the interest rate. You usually see APR after interest rates quoted for loans, and APY after interest rates quoted for investments (savings accounts, checking accounts, certificiates of deposit, etc). What's the difference?

Before we get into the differences, let's define what they stand for. APR stands for Annual Percentage Rate and APY stands for Annual Percentage Yield. Now that we have that out of the way, we can begin investigating the difference between the two.

Believe it or not, the two terms were not made up just to confuse people. There is a valid reason for the difference - compound interest.

What Is Compound Interest?

Simply put, compound interest is interest earned or charged on previous interest. If you are investing, this is a good thing. You want to earn compound interest. If you are borrowing, this is a bad thing. You do not want to pay compound interest.

Compound interest is a bit tricky because there are two factors that really affect how it is calculated. The first, obviously, is the interest rate. By convention, interest rates are usually quoted on a per-year basis. For example, if we say something pays 12% interest, it's assumed to be 12% interest per year. But another factor determines how much money you will have at the end of one year - the compounding period or compounding frequency. Think of the compounding frequency as how often your accrued interest gets added to your principal and thus earns more interest.

Let's look at an example. Suppose we have $100 and we invest that in a product that pays 12% per year, compounded monthly. Our compounding period is a month, so at the end of each month, we are paid our interest and that gets added to our principal that we earn interest on the following month. Because interest rates are quoted on a per-year basis, to do our math, we need to convert that to a per-month basis. Twelve percent per year is equal to one percent per month.

The following table illustrates our balance for the first 3 months. Notice that in the second month, we get paid interest on the interest we earned in the first month. Likewise, in the third month, we get paid interest on the interest we earned in the second month.

MonthStarting BalanceInterest EarnedEnding Balance
11001101
21011.01102.01
3102.011.0201103.0301

Using a compound interest calculator like the one found here, we can see that after one year, our balance will be $112.68.

This is where the difference between APR and APY comes into play. In this case, 12% is our APR - the annual percentage rate. But if we just figured out 12% of $100, that is $12, so at the end of the year, we'd expect to have $112. When we take into account the monthly compounding, we end up with more money - $112.68. The amount we actually get, or yield, is larger due to compounding. To account for this, we use the annual percentage yield figure, or APY. In this case, our APY is 12.68%.

Note that the compounding period has a direct influence on APY. In our example, if we changed our compounding period from monthly to daily, our APY becomes 12.747%. The more often we add that accrued interest to our principal, the more money we make. Likewise, a longer compounding period results in a lower APY. If our investment was compound quarterly (every 3 months), the APY drops down to 12.55%.

You can play around with various compounding periods to see the effect on APY using this calculator. Note that if your compounding period is one year, your APR and APY will be equal. (In this case, the interest is often referred to as simple interest, rather than compound interest.)

APY gives consumers an easy way to compare to investments. for example, if you were asked to choose between two investments where one paid 12.2% compounded monthly and one paid 12.5% compounded semi-annually, it would be somewhat tedious to figure out which one will earn you the most money. But if we look at the two investments in terms of APY, it becomes easy. The first has an APY of 12.905 and the second has an APY of 12.890 (which can be found using the calculator linked to above). All other things being equal, the first investment will generate more money for us, so that's the one we should choose, even though the quoted interest rate is lower.


Which Do I Pay Attention To - APR Or APY?

My examples so far have been using investments - situations where we are earning money - but these terms also apply to loans and interest we might be charged by a lender. You may have noticed that the APY figure is almost always higher than the APR figure. This leads to an interesting advertising phenomenon: For products where the consumers pay interest, the lower APR figure is often often quoted. For products where consumers earn interest, the higher figure, APY, is often quoted. Here's two examples from Bank Of America's website:

Advertisement for a loan

 
Advertisement for a savings account

In general, you always want to pay attention to the APY figure. If you are investing, you want that number to be as high as possible. If you are borrowing, you want it to be as low as possible. You may need to read the footnotes or small print disclosures to find it, but it should be provided somewhere. If you are comparing two products, make sure you are comparing apples to apples - APY to APY and not APR to APY.

Credit Cards

I've written previously about how you should not carry a balance on your credit cards, but here's another reason to not do that: You're paying a higher interest rate than you think. The interest rate listed on your credit card statement is quoted as APR, but the amount you are actually paying, the APY, is almost a full point higher! And, not surprisingly, they don't make it easy for you to find out.

Here's an example from my Discover credit card. This is on my statement:


This is in the fine print on my statement:

No details, but it sure sounds like are going to be compounding daily. To find out for sure, you can call the number listed, or dive into your cardmember agreement document you received when you signed up for the card. (You did save that, right? Me neither. Luckily, we have the internet.) Here's what they say:


Yup. They describe it, rather than flat out say it, but by adding the accrued interest to your balance each day, they are compounding daily. Now let's hop back to our APR to APY calculator and see what that does to our 11.99% APR interest rate:


Yikes!! That's almost a full percentage point higher! Don't carry a balance, folks.

Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Discover To Let Users Freeze Their Card

Discover Card recently announced a new feature of their card where customers can "freeze" their credit card if the card is misplaced, but are not sure if it was stolen. Credit.com reports that Discover card users can use the Discover web site or mobile app to temporarily suspend their card. This will prevent any new transactions from being made in person and will also prevent any cash advances or balance transfers from being made. It will not prevent phone or internet charges, nor will it prevent any automatic payments that have been set up. This feature will only be available on Discover it cards with no annual fee.

I think this is a good idea. If you can't find your card, cancelling it and getting a new one is a pain in the butt and you can't make any new charges until you receive the new card. This feature will let people who think they might have just misplaced the card have some protection. For example, if you are on a trip and can't find your card but think you just left it in your other wallet or purse at home, you can freeze the card and look for it when the trip is over. If it was at home, you saved yourself the hassle of getting a replacement card. If it was, in fact, stolen, you've protected yourself against unauthorized charges.

The credit.com article also points out some other uses for this feature: if your spending is out of control, you can freeze it for a time, or if you need to stop an authorized user from using the card, you can do that. I'm not sure this will be as effective as they think. After all, phone and internet charges are not blocked, so if you have a spending problem, you can still use the card online to buy things.

All in all, I think this is a good feature and hope Discover rolls it out to all of their cards soon. I also hope other credit card issuers will start offering this feature. I'd like to see an option to also freeze phone and internet charges while leaving automatic payments intact, but this is a good first step.

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

How To Evaluate Credit Card Balance Transfer Offers

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Last week, I promised you I'd show you how to evaluate those balance transfer offers you get from your credit cards, so let's get into it, shall we?

Here's the situation: You're currently carrying a balance on a somewhat high interest credit card. I know, you broke the cardinal rule of credit cards by not paying off the balance in full each month. I'm not going to judge you for carrying a balance. There is no slut-shaming here. What's important is you realize you are wasting money paying that high interest rate and are ready to take steps to correct the problem.

Your current situation:

Credit Card #1
Balance $4,000
Interest Rate 15.95%
Minimum Payment $120
Actual Payment $150

First off, congrats on making more than the minimum payment! It may not be much more, but it's all your budget can afford and you know every little bit extra helps. You also know that in order to get out of a hole, the first thing you have to do is stop digging, so you've resolved to not charge any more purchases until you get this debt paid off.

Let's see what this is costing you. We'll use the credit card calculator here and plug in values of $4,000, 15.95%, and a $150 payment. That shows it will take 34 months to pay off this debt and you will end up paying $972 in interest.

But today is your lucky day! You got a balance transfer offer in the mail from your other credit card (the one you are NOT carrying a balance on). It gives you two choices:

  1. 0% interest for 18 months, then 11.99% on the remaining balance, with a 3% or $10 balance transfer fee (whichever is more) or
  2. 4.99% for 21 months, then 11.99% on the remaining balance, with no balance transfer fee

Which should you choose? That no fee one sounds better, doesn't it? Maybe that's the one to take? There's only one way to figure this out - we must use the maths! For each offer, we'll figure out how much it will cost us in total interest and then choose whichever one is the lowest. We will assume we will continue to make our $150 monthly payment - after all, that's in our budget and it's all we can afford.

Option #1

This one is the easiest to calculate. First off, let's tackle the fee. Three percent of $4,000 is $120. That is more than the $10 minimum, so that's what our fee will be. Not looking too good so far.

We will be charged no interest for 18 months. This means for those 18 months, 100% of our payment will go towards reducing our balance.  18 * $150 = $2,700, so after 18 months, we'll have a remaining balance of:

$4,000 - $2,700 = $1,300

At this point, the interest kicks in at 11.99%. Going back to our credit card payment calculator, we plug in $1,300 for our balance, 11.99% for the interest rate, and $150 for the payment. It tells us this will be paid off in 10 months and we will have paid $67 in interest.

What's our total cost for Option 1? That is equal to our transfer fee plus our interest charges, or $120 + $67 = $187. The balance will be paid off in 18 + 10 months, or 28 months.

Option #2

This one is a little more complicated to figure out, but we're going to make some assumptions to simplify things. Normally, loans are paid off on an amortization schedule, meaning even though you are making the same payment amount each month, as time goes on, more of that payment gets applied to principle and less to interest (because our outstanding balance is dropping and the interest charged on that amount will therefore also drop). We're going to ignore that and just assume the same amount goes to each portion each month, at least for the initial 21 month period. This means our interest calculation results will be slightly higher than what we would actually be charged, but it will be close enough to the actual value to be able to make a valid comparison to Option #1.

There is no balance transfer fee for this option, so we have no cost there.

For the first 21 months, we're paying 4.99% interest. This is $4,000 * .0499, or $199.60 per year (because interest rates are quoted on a yearly basis). Per month, this works out to $199.60 / 12, or $16.63 per month. So of our $150 monthly payment, $16.63 is going towards interest, leaving $133.37 per month to reducing the outstanding balance. After 21 months, the balance will be reduced by $133.37 * 21 = $2,800.77. So when our promotional interest rate expires, our outstanding balance will be:

$4,000 - $2,800.77, or $1,199.23. Let's call it an even $1,200.

The rest of the calculations are done just like they were for Option #1. We'll go back to our credit card payment calculator and plug in $1,200 for the balance, 11.99% for the interest rate, and $150 for the payment amount. It reports it will take us 9 months to pay off the balance and we will have paid $57 in interest.

What's our total cost for Option 2? That is equal to our transfer fee plus our interest charges, or $0 + ($16.67 * 21) + $57 = $407.07. The balance will be paid off in 21 + 9 months, or 30 months.

The Final Comparison

Let's look at what we figured out:


Total Cost (Interest + Fees) Time To Pay Off
Current Credit Card $972 34 months
Option #1 $187 28 months
Option #2 $407 30 months
 
It's clear that Option #1 will cost us the least amount of money, even though it comes with a 3% balance transfer fee. That's the option we should choose.

Important! This analysis assumes you are not continuing to charge purchases to the card during this period. If you do, this whole analysis goes out the window. This is because credit card companies will apply any payments you make to your lowest interest rate (i.e. promotional) balances first. If you go with Option #1 and then charge another purchase to that card, none of your payments will go towards paying that purchase off until the promotional balance is paid off. So if your normal credit card rate is 11.99%, you will be charged that in interest on your new purchase for 28 months before you start paying that new purchase off. Odds are, that will wipe out your savings from the balance transfer.

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

How To Use A Credit Card - Part 2

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Last week, I went over the basics of using credit cards responsibly. This week, I'll take a look at some of the more advanced things you can do with them and I'll also give a brief overview of what I do.

Advanced Topics


Rewards!

Many credit cards offer some sort of rewards, either airline miles, cash back, hotel points, or something else. The offers change all the time. There are websites dedicated to tracking the best reward cards and there are people who go to extreme lengths of maximize their rewards. Which reward card you get really depends on what you want and what you spend money on. Travel a lot and would like to travel more? Get a card that offers frequent flier miles. Just want cash back on all purchases? There are cards that offer that, with higher cash back rates for purchases at certain stores.

Most reward cards charge an annual fee. As long as the rewards you actually get are worth more than the annual fee, you're coming out ahead.

If you decide to get a card that offers rewards you want, go all out. Charge everything. Buying a pack of gum? Use the credit card! Buying groceries? Use the credit card! Renting a movie? Use the credit card! But always remember the rule: YOU MUST PAY OFF THE CARD IN FULL EACH MONTH!! Never carry a balance. If you do, the interest charges you will pay will negate and even eclipse the value of your rewards and you'll end up losing money. If you cannot pay off the card in full each month, don't use it.

Text / Email Alerts

Most all credit cards offer some sort of text or email alerts. You can set these up to remind you of a coming payment due date or to alert you anytime a charge over a certain dollar amount is made. Two of my favorites are alerts anytime my card is used but not physically present, i.e., phone or internet transactions, and alerts anytime my card is used at a gas station. Credit card thieves like to test out stolen cards at gas stations because they typically are self-service and the initial charge is relatively small. If the card works there, they then move on to larger, more expensive purchases. The gas station alert actually saved me a lot of hassle last year. I used my credit card to make a hotel reservation in Vancouver, Canada. About 2 weeks after I made the reservation, I got an email alert that my card had been used at a gas station in Canada. I was able to call the credit card company immediately and have the card cancelled and a new one sent to me within minutes of the fraudulent charge being made.

Balance Transfers

Many cards offer 0% interest or $0 fee balance transfer offers. Be sure to read the fine print of these to see if they are right for you. If you have a debt you are being charged interest on, it might be worthwhile to transfer it to a credit card with a lower interest rate. You need to do a couple of calculations here to determine this.

First, figure out how long it will take you to pay off the debt at the current interest rate. Determine how much interest you will pay during that time. Now, look at your offers. Zero interest rate offers usually charge a service charge for the balance transfer, typically a percentage of the amount transferred. Is that amount less than the interest you would pay on your current debt? If it is, and you can pay off the loan before the 0% interest rate expires, do the transfer.

Now look at the $0 fee offer. What is the interest rate and how much interest will you be charged before you can pay off the debt? Is that less than what you would pay if you didn't transfer the balance? Is it less than what you would pay under the 0% interest offer? If it is, use this deal for the balance transfer. Be sure to pay off the debt by the time you used in your calculations or you could end up paying more money, not less.

I'll do a more detailed write up about this, using actual numbers, next week.

Playing The Rewards Games

Again, there are tons of websites on how to maximize your credit card rewards. I won't get into all of the methods, but I will point out that getting the most of your rewards program does require some attention to detail. For example, some cards offer increased cash back from certain retailers or store types during certain months of the year. If you are not good at tracking little details, it might be best to go with a simple rewards program that closely mirrors your regular spending patterns anyway.

How I Do It

I have three credit cards, all of which offer some sort of rewards, plus my debit card.

  1. Discover Card - This card I keep because it was one of the very first credit cards I got. I've had the account since 1989. Since 15% of my credit score is based on how long I've had accounts open, I want to keep this card. Back when I got it, Discover was about the only card that offered a cash back program - 1% cash back on all purchases. Now, they have changed with the times and offer 1% cash back on all purchases with 5% cash back from a rotating set of industries that changes each quarter. For example, this quarter, I get 5% cash back on all restaurant charges. There is no annual fee.
  2. Chase Freedom Card (Visa) - The general consensus is this is one of the best general cash back cards out there, so I got it about a year ago to replace an airline mileage card. (I don't travel enough for an airline mile reward cards and mine started charging an annual fee, so I dropped it.) Like my Discover card, the Freedom Card also gives me 1% cash back on all purchases with 5% back on a rotating group of industries that change each quarter. Right now, I get 5% cash back on all grocery purchases. Last October through December, I got 5% back on all purchases at Amazon.com. Guess where I bought everyone's Christmas gifts? There is no annual fee. When I signed up, I also got a $100 bonus after charging my first $500 and no interest on charges for the first 15 months.
  3. American Express Starwood Preferred Guest - This card earns me one Starwood point per dollar spent. The Starwood Preferred Guest program is one of the better hotel points programs out there. Not only can you redeem the points at any Starwood hotel (which includes the Sheraton, W, A loft, and Westin hotel chains, among others), but you can also redeem them 1-for-1 for frequent flier miles on just about any airlines. There is a $95 annual fee. I use the points for 2 to 4 free nights at hotels during the year, so I'm still coming out ahead, even with the annual fee.
The cardinal rule of credit cards is to never carry a balance. With rewards cards, you want to charge as much as possible to earn your rewards. Those could be contradictory goals, so you need to manage your expenses carefully. To do this, I use an app on my phone called Expense IQ to track all my spending. This program has replaced my checkbook and it tracks all my credit cards and bank accounts. I enter all my charges into the app and then, each Sunday night, I log into my bank's website and go to the electronic bill pay area. I schedule payments to my credit cards that cover all the charges I made that week. I schedule the payments to be made three weeks in the future, so the money stays in my account earning interest as long as possible without incurring interest charges from the credit card.

Costco only accepts American Express, so I use that card there for groceries and gas. Starting April 1, 2016, American Express is out and Visa is in, so I'll be switching to using my Visa card. Since Costco is the only place I use my Amex card, I'll have to shift my spending somewhere else if I want to continue to earn Starwood Points. I'll be watching to see if it still provides me enough value to overcome the annual fee. I know I'll at least keep the card through December 2016, as we're planning a trip to Germany and I have enough points to get our hotel for free.

The Chase Freedom Card gives me 5% cash back on grocery store purchases for the first three months of this year. I also tend to order a lot of stuff from Amazon.com, so I play the reward maximizing game by buying Amazon gift cards at my grocery store, thus getting 5% cash back on them while getting Amazon credit I would use anyway. Combined with my use of my grocery store's loyalty card, which gives me about a 30% - 40% discount on one tank of gas each month, I'm getting some nice rewards from grocery shopping!

The zero interest rate for the first 15 months also is proving to be a huge benefit. I recently remodeled my master bathroom. When planning this, the original strategy was to use a home equity line of credit to pay for it. Instead, I used the credit card everywhere I could. I got 1% back plus no interest charges. When the 15 month interest-free period ends, I'll pay off the card with my HELOC, which has a much lower (and tax-deductible) interest rate.

As you can see, I don't quite go all out trying to maximize my credit card rewards, but I do make an decent effort. It does require attention to detail, but that's the type of person I am anyway, so I'm comfortable with it.

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

How To Use A Credit Card - Part 1

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In today's world, your credit score impacts many aspects of your life, some not even related to finance. In addition to determining what interest rate you'll pay on loans, your credit score can be used to determine your insurance rates and your ability to get a new job or a new cell phone. Many people who advocate living debt free also advocate not having any credit cards at all. Because your credit score is used in so many different ways, and because credit card use makes up a large portion of your credit score, not having credit cards may actually hurt you in the long run. If you cannot show lenders or service providers that you can responsibly manage debt, they will either not lend you money at all or charge you a higher interest rate than you should be paying.

Credit cards are not something to be afraid of or avoided. They are simply a tool. They can be used for good or evil. They can bring you rewards and perks, but they can also drive you to bankruptcy.

The Basics


The Cardinal Rule

The Number One rule when using credit cards is: Don't carry a balance. Pay off the card in full, every month. If you do this, you are getting an interest-free loan from your credit card company, which is a good thing. It means your money sits in the bank earning interest while you spend someone else's money throughout the month. Of course, there's no such thing as a free lunch, so you will have to pay the credit card company back, but if you do this in full each month, they won't charge you interest. If you don't however, they will - usually at an incredibly high interest rate in the 15% to 25% range. Paying interest raises the cost of whatever it was you purchased. You know those killer shoes you found on sale for 50% off? If you charge them and only pay the minimum due amount on your credit card statement, they weren't 50% off. They were probably more like 50% extra.

Always Use Protection

Credit cards give you a certain amount of protection. If you purchase a product or a service from a company and you have problems with it that you can't resolve with the seller, you can many times call the credit card company and file a complaint or a charge back. The credit card company will either remove the charge from your account entirely or place the charge on hold while they contact the seller to resolve the situation on your behalf. While they are doing this, you do not have to pay the charge and they will not charge you interest on the amount in question until the issue is resolved.

You are also protected in case the card or (more likely these days),  the card number, is stolen. Laws governing credit card companies say you are responsible for only up to $50 of fraudulent charges (providing you notify the company within 60 days). If you have the card stolen, you might not be responsible for any amount if you report the loss immediately.

Annual Fee

Look for a card that does not charge an annual fee. Cards that offer rewards usually charge an annual fee (I'll talk about those next week), but there are plenty of cards out there that don't. Get one of those. They may have a slightly higher interest rate than a card with an annual fee, but since you're never going to carry a balance anyway, the interest rate doesn't matter, right?

Debit Versus Credit

Debit cards look and work just like credit cards and some debit cards can also be used as a credit card. However, there are important differences between the two. With a credit card, you are spending someone else's money and, when the bill comes, you pay them back. When using a debit card, it's your money you are spending and the money comes out of your account almost immediately. This can cause some serious issues if your card is stolen or used fraudulently. Yes, the bank will eventually return your money to you, but you'll have to do without that money until the case is settled, which could take weeks.

You also have fewer protections when using a debt card. You remember that $50 liability limit I mentioned before? Doesn't apply to a debit card. Many credit cards also offer perks, such as free flight insurance when buying airline tickets, free auto insurance coverage when renting a car, automatic extended warranties on some items purchased, etc. Debit cards generally don't provide these benefits.

If you have a debit card that can also be used as a credit card, how do you know which it's being used as for a particular transaction? The most sure-fire way to tell is to remember this rule:

PIN = debit
Signature = credit

When you swipe your card at a payment terminal, choose the "Credit" option, not "Debit." You'll be asked to sign your name instead of entering a PIN. But beware! I have seen some terminals that ask you for a PIN even if you choose "Credit"! If you enter a PIN, you are using your card as a debit card, NOT a credit card, no matter what you selected. (Merchants prefer debit cards because they aren't charged as much to process them as credit cards, which is why you see these sneaky attempts to get you to enter a PIN.)

It's important to note that, even if you choose "Credit" and sign your name, if you are using a debit card, the money will still come out of your account almost immediately. You won't get a bill at the end of the month. You will gain the financial protections of a credit card, though - the $50 liability limit, etc.

How Many Cards Do You Need?

Not many. Too many credit cards can hurt your credit score, so you don't want to go crazy. Having 10 to 15 credit cards, even if there are no balances on them, will hurt your score. Thirty percent of your score is based, in part, on your available credit. Many cards = lots of available credit, which means you could go out and max out all those cards in one day and easily get into more debt than you can handle. I think a good limit is 3 or 4 cards. I own three - one Visa, one American Express, and one Discover. You may want to get a MasterCard as well, just so you have one from each issuer and therefore, will likely always have one that is accepted somewhere.


Those are the basics of credit card usage. If you pay attention to these, especially the part about always paying the balance in full each month, you'll never get into any financial problems and you'll be on your way to improving your credit score. Next week, I'll go over some of the more advanced features of credit cards and talk about how I use them.